Brisbane and Back (on a chooky)  

 

The time had come to put some serious kilometres on the bike. It hadn’t done a really long haul since Christmas/New year. Some long-time friends in Toowoomba Queensland (my original home town in another life) had managed to find my phone number after 20 years away, and were very keen to have me call in.

 

There was a time when Melbourne to Toowoomba was a day’s ride, albeit 23 hours straight. But not now. Well, certainly not on my Suzuki 400cc off-roader. Putting two and two together I came up with about five different plans to ride to Toowoomba and Brisbane.

 

Wednesday:  I roll out the driveway of the Heathcote Caravan Park and point the front tyre towards Albury. Albury? Well, I don’t want to over-do it on the first day do I? The roads are sopping wet but the storms are in front of me and heading away. I dawdle along so as not to catch them from behind. Without any great effort, 3 hours later I cruise into beautiful down-town Lavington/Albury. And with some luck, find my friend Russell Daniel at home and awake. He drives a semi-trailer between Albury and Melbourne, and starts work when the driver from Sydney hand over. Sleep fits in the bits left over after driving.

 

Russell is also writing his autobiography. This is nothing remarkable until you realise that there are 25 years of outback motorcycle rides and rallies all meticulously recorded in journals over the years. Me? Well I’m the proof-reader come editor ‘cos truck drivers don’t spell real good. But Russell has a great empathy for the written word and we’re adding some polish to the manuscript today and tomorrow.

 

Friday:  7.20 am I’m on the road and heading north to Lockhart in a perfect temperature. This area has had six months of good rain. “The corn is as high as an elephant’s eye” … it would be, if they had planted any corn; but it’s nearly all wheat, and Patterson’s Curse.

 

Narrandera, Leeton. Don’t ask me why you would be still trying to grow rice in Australia, but around Leeton they are. Paddocks everywhere submerged in water. Maybe they haven’t been told that Australia is a dry continent and we’re quickly running out of water. Onward through Yenda, then a little back road to Rankins Springs for first fuel. Northward to Lake Cargelligo and it’s a town I have never been to before. Yup, it’s got a really big lake which comes off the Lachlan River but the town is very down-at-heel. Pity.

 

If I thought I had gone from chocolates to boiled lollies in half a day, worse is to follow. Heading off the highway to Cobar, I pick up a little wisp of dirt road just where the map says it would be. 124 kilometers to Nymagee; my destination for fuel, food and to camp out. Not only is 124 k’s a hell of a long way but the township is one of the worst I’ve ever seen. Deserted buildings everywhere. The petrol servo shut down 10 years ago, no grocery shop … just a pub with no food and a big police station. And this place is 95 kilometers from the nearest town. Far out. Central Australia has got nothing on this place.

 

Saturday: I slept on an old picnic table last night, which means that very first light has me awake and on the road by 7am. Gently, gently on the throttle and the last of my fuel gets me in to Cobar where I immediately raid the IGA supermarket for breakfast.

 

Today’s destination is Byrock on the Nyngan/Bourke road and the purpose of the rendezvous is a pub dinner/one night rally of the OAR (Outback Australia Riders). Sixty-seven kilometres of “interesting” dirt road has me arrive at Byrock (one pub, one shop) by noon.

 

Hey, I’m only the second one here this year. I’ve been upstaged by a bloke on one of those dual-purpose XLV shaft-drive750cc vee-twins that Honda made about twenty years ago. You know, the deep-red and black ones that were a heap of rubbish but which refuse to die.

 

Throughout Saturday afternoon the riders roll in, with a final tally of about 3 representing 4 states. Not a bad effort for an over-nighter. Most popular motorcycle is anything in the BMW GS series, but then, there’s no accounting for taste.

 

Our hosts at the pub have logs on a fire, holes dug in the ground and cast-iron oven pots at the ready. Yes, they proceed to make a camp-fire cooked dinner for us. Lamb and vegetables, followed up with damper and golden syrup. It was worth riding the 900 kilometers just for the damper.

 

Monday:  This is such a tough life that I have Sunday off as a rest day. But come Monday I’m on the road again headed east nor’east. Lots of dirt today and the first 70 kilometers goes easily. Emus, goats, kangaroos, all let me know that I’m in outback Australia and not to take my eyes off either side of the road.

 

At Gongolgon I’m due to pick up a station access track for 65 k’s on past ‘Billybingbone’. Don’t you just love the place names out here. I’ve been riding with both digital odometers switched on which is a big bonus of the modern day trail bike. I can monitor total k’s since last fuel with one, and distances between geographical points with the other.

 

A short distance in and I notice a reasonable amount of water on the track. Last night I could see lightening over this way and now we know why. Pressing on, the track just gets softer. It’s like riding with the rear brake on. I spin the bike around and ride back out to the long way around. Good decision, Leslie, as the rain will be ahead of me all the way to Goondiwindi.

 

At Walgett, there were the tell-tale steel bars and mesh on all the retail outlets. Yes, well … I guess we screwed up badly on that one. Fuel up and head out to Collarenabri and Mungindi. My original plan was to take station tracks on the other side of the river. But great channels of water lying beside the road reinforce the correct choice.

 

Little did I know that a compulsory 95 kilometers of dirt road was going to give me all the riding challenge I needed. Stone the crows. The road has slimey mud holes in some areas and mud set like concrete in others. The whole surface has been cut to shreds by trucks and a dry crust doesn’t mean it is dry underneath.

 

Earlier in the day I had been thinking that I needed a bigger bike for this long distance riding. But right now the little 400 is back in favour over a BMW1200 GS. The GS would have found itself parked on a concrete culvert, the only stable land, just like the semi-trailer that I find out there. He’s already destroyed the track and decided to sit it out until the next day.

 

As I ride along I work out an interesting mathematical formula to help my riding. (The amount of rain plus type of road soil) minus (heat of sun  plus wind speed) all divided by the weight of the bike equals the speed at which one can ride.

 

Just when I had done the maths and got the hang of it, the road would change from greasy brown to sandy orange and I would have to start the calculation all over again. 95 kilometers of this was a damn long way when I roll into Mungindi. I am stuffed. My arms have the strength of wet noodles.

 

Is it over? No. The road to Goondiwindi has another 50 k’s for me. Shit. I am having a lousy day. My bum is sore from perching on a 150 mm wide seat, my ear holes are in agony from the ear plugs and to add insult to injury, I finally catch the storm 30 k’s before Goondiwindi. Yes, the whole paraphernalia of waterproofs has to go on. But I haven’t tossed the Suzuki down the road, and that is always a comfort at the end of the day.

 

Tuesday: Let me see now … Goondiwindi to Toowoomba 220 kilometers. Climate cool, overcast but clearing. Bike, fettled back to reasonable condition after yesterday. OK. Let’s roll.

 

The highway through Millmerran is basically a race track for semi-trailers going up the Newell Highway. Black, smooth and nothing happening. I dial the Suzuki to 105 km/h; see no real benefit and quietly go back to my usual 85-90 km/h. On long runs it is not how fast you go, but how long you can keep going.

 

The flat, black-soil plains of the Darling Downs drift by. All farmed to within an inch of its life by countless generations of tillers of the land. It suddenly occurs to me why I left home in Toowoomba 42 years ago. This is dirt farmers’ country. This is Ohio … and I had to go to Montana.

 

As well as visiting my friends, east of Toowoomba and just below the steep descent of the Great Diving Range, there is another reason for the trip. I should have been coming home to see my old original Yamaha dealer. The bloke who got me from my first (and what could have been my only) motorbike, to a lifetime of motorcycling. He showed me how to ride in the bush (trail riding had yet to be invented). He encouraged me to go dirt-track racing, to have ago at motocross racing. But as so often happens in life … I was too damn late. My old Yamaha dealer had died 3 years ago.

 

I catch up with his son at the Honda dealership where he has worked for 22 years. I visit his widow, now in her late sixties. Life’s strange isn’t it.

 

Nowdays you purchase a motorbike and very little else. I was lucky enough to buy the bike, and inherit a mentor for free.

 

I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve done the Brisbane/Toowoomba to Victoria run, but this was the last ride. Well … maybe if …

 

Les Leahy