Tasmania  3rd – 10th March, 2007

 

Ben Warden

Honda CBR954

Peter Feistl

Suzuki GSXR750

Julie Warden

Magna Wagon

Dave Ward

Kawasaki ZX10

Ian Payne

Honda CBR1000

Bronwyn Manifold

Suzuki GSXR600

Paul Southwell

Honda CBR1000

 

Ford XR8 ute

Renzo Cunico

Honda VFR750

Rob Langer

BMW 1150 GS

I took the lap top and each night I attempted to write down a few of the day’s prime activities. Of course, after a hard day’s riding (or walking), finalising accommodation, and ensuing we were all fed and watered, all the mind wanted to do was relax and enjoy. Hence, these notes are just that: notes; particularly as they have not been revisited for a month and the memory is fading fast. Since there were no volunteers to put pen to paper, this is what we are left with. Overall it was a fantastic trip with only a few minor incidents to spice up the day. Everyone got on well, and we had many, many laughs. The weather was generally fine apart from the first couple of days. We travelled in the vicinity of 2850 km.

 

Saturday 3rd March:  Station Pier - Devonport - Ulverstone

We met at the carpark entrance to the Spirit of Tasmania at nominal time of 8 am. Rob turned up at 20 past (early compared to last time!) and we set off at 8.25am, fully onboard 10 minutes later with minimal queuing, the only pause when we were asked if we were carrying explosives, guns, bombs, etc.

Activities included lots of backgammon and Phase 10 (card game) played between Peter, Ben and Julie, bike magazine reading (thanks Ern for loan of current American and British mags – devoured by all and sundry) and general time filling on the trip over.  Lining up patiently at the bistro and consuming a leisurely lunch whiled away another hour.

On arrival it was agreed to meet at the Noodle shop in Devonport for tea (identified as we made our way up the river on the Spirit, “the street behind the cinema complex”) before continuing on to Ulverstone and our first night’s accommodation. Subway was right next door and appealed to some. Dave and Bron headed for the pub at Ulverstone while we found the Bass and Flinders Motel, arriving just on dark. Once settled in, in the very spacious, old style motel rooms, Ben, Julie and Renzo did a 1 hour beach walk. Big, wide, stony beach. Then we wandered the back streets back to the motel.  The accommodation took some sorting out because they had double booked one of our rooms but it worked out well with only 3 rooms. There was a restaurant/ bar with a big screen TV and we watched the end of the Hawthorn-Carlton NAB Cup game.

 

Sunday 4th : Ulverstone – Leven Gorge – Tullah Resort

Julie and Bronwyn drove the cars in convoy the 120 km directly to Tullah. Before reaching the Resort they stopped at Wee George steam train in Tullah and enjoyed a ride for $5. They had stopped for morning tea at Warratah and visited the falls, picking up Guide Falls and Ridgely Falls.

They also visited the stamping mill exhibition and waterwheels, only opened on 5th Feb. Huge (2m x 1m) photos printed onto mini-corrugated iron. Working equipment had been removed from the tin mine site and relocated as a tourist attraction complete with press button operated  rock crusher – very noisy.

The boys checked out the roads and the spectacular and easily reached Leven Gorge en-route to Tullah. In the afternoon we rode down to Queenstown via the 58 km of sensational Plimsol Road (practice lap). The road was mainly wet or wet/dry, the weather not exactly raining, but not far from it.  A mobile call to Mrs Dougie of Dougie’s Lyell Mine Tours saw us booked on tomorrow’s 10 am tour, 8 people only. The price of $70 for the 2.5 hrs tour was still the same after two years.

We decided to have a coffee in Strahan so 38 km of very tight twisty roads later saw us ensconced outside the local Strahan Bakery. The trip was exciting with a couple of buses to be overtaken. They were chasing the world renowned steam train from Queenstown to Strahan ($110 one way, many wooden bridges, cuttings, phenomenal views). Dave and Bron had been on it and reported it was worth the money.  Of course, the bus drivers do this route two or three times a day and don’t hang about, as Ronny Johnston would say.  The buses tend to throw sand on to the road on every left hand corner as the rear wheels cut the corner.  Pretty tricky riding conditions – wet and sandy corners, steep down hill, quite a bit of oncoming traffic, passing difficult. Full concentration and clear head required.

We met Heather and Tony Raditsis celebrating their 20th wedding anniversary in Strahan. I took the  obligatory group photo before we headed back to Tullah via Zeehan and Roseberry.

Tullah Resort is an ex-miners bulk accommodation venue, now owned by a multinational with a view of capturing a variety of tourist accommodation requirements, from bunk bed backpacker style to luxury apartments. We stayed in the backpacker rooms, two per room, except there were 9 of us so Pete, Ian and Paul bunked together, with many a laugh. Cost $60 per room per night. Some issues with towels costing extra - $2 for the 3 nights. Attached is a bar, lounge and breakfast area offering beautiful tranquil views across the lake to distant mountains, often mist covered in the mornings.

Lamb shanks were the most popular choice for tea. The menu changed nightly and the food was of a reasonable standard, generally dearer than Melbourne prices, but they had the market somewhat cornered and beggars couldn’t be choosers.

 

Monday 5th  Tullah

It was still overcast and drizzly so we all drove (except Renzo and Rob who went riding) to Queenstown for Dougies (Lyell) Mine Tour. Unfortunately it was cancelled at the last minute due to a 400 tonne rock fall overnight. The incident made the front pages in the Tassy papers. No tours for two weeks until mining authorities give the all-clear.  So we went to JJs café for morning tea (mugs of coffee, skinny milk shakes, thick milk shakes, hot chocolates) and sponge cake. This was turning into a gourmet food tour with eating too much, too frequently the normal state of affairs.

Ben drove the boys back to Tullah along the Plimsol road again (sighting lap). The initial plan was to go riding, but the rain was so heavy and showers so frequent we decided to wait a couple of hours. Paul went for a kip and later Ian did too, last night’s alcohol intake taking its toll. Ben and Pete got into the Back Gammon again and whiled away an hour or so. Around 1.30 pm we walked down to the supermarked/general store and bought lunch, sitting outside as per the day before. A large and filling ham and salad roll including egg paste for Ben and Paul was purchased for the bargain price of $4.50. Finally on to bikes around 2.30 pm for 40 km ride north up the highway to turn left to Waratah and Savage river and the beginning of the dirt 26 km to Corinna and Pieman’s Ferry at $10 per bike. The quartz clay is startling bright and after a couple of kilometres I stopped for a regroup and to rest my eyes. 

After the usual level of good natured cajoling we set off in random order. A couple of kilometers later I met Paul and Peter who had just fished Renzo out of the gutter, his bike suffering sandpaper like abrasions, coating the bike in white sand which looked much better after a wash. Renzo had already gone, the bike sustaining no structural damage. Dave was blazing away at the front on the ZX10 with Rob on the GS not far behind. 

We had met Renzo and Rob coming back from their loop out to Reese Dam, Zeehan and Roseberry just as were about to leave. They joined us after their 150 km of miserably wet riding. It was now mainly dry, though overcast and cool.

I passed Renzo after about 10 km, riding slowly, somewhat chastened by his minor get-off.  26 km of sandy dirt is a long way on a road bike – and I hadn’t told them about the extra 12 km of tight uphill dirt on the other side of the river. But in lots of places you could get along around 80 km/h and a couple of straights I saw up around 100 km/h hour. Dave was up at 140, marking the route with long fishtail slides.

Coffee at Corinna and photos of the Pieman Ferry, everyone making it safely through.  Then on to the ferry, Ben collecting the money and squeezing off a few photos. It took only five minutes to cross the river on the punt and it only fitted two cars, or in our case, one car and six bikes. The Mercedes was driven very well by an elderly gent and wife. Luckily he pulled over to let us pass, otherwise I don’t think we would have got past him and negotiated the next bend. A fast blast back to Tullah finished off the day.

All nine people had roast lamb for tea at the Chalet. It was Dave s 35th birthday and we all sung Happy Birthday during the evening meal.

Julie and Bron had had a lovely day sightseeing in Strahan. Highlights included visiting the saw mill and gallery in the main street, Hogart Falls and nearby walk, and Risby Cove Art Gallery. Bron bought buttons for Julianne for her birthday.

Then off to Banjos Bakery for lunch consisting of a black pepper meat pie (almost vegetarian, almost all gravy). Julie had a pasty. It was hot and they were cold and hence the pastries satisfied the primary requirement of warming them up. They sat out the front of the bakery and talked with the Spanish bikies riding a Harley.

Then back to Tullah by 3.30pm for a snooze followed by a walk with Roy, the local Tullah wood turner who doubles as dishwasher in the mornings at the Chalet. He offered to show the girls a free spatula wood turning lesson next day.

 

Tuesday 6th Tullah

Weather on the improve, another big loop out west was planned. We stopped at the lookout halfway to Zeehan for a regroup. Parking on the right, lookout on the left, a strange set up. You feel like you have to stand on the road to get the best view. Lucky there are so few cars and visibility in each direction is good.

Bron was riding the Suzuki GSXR600 in the morning for the 180km loop out to Reese Dam and then the Zeehan Spray Tunnel named after the  locomotive called the Spray. The site was an old tin mine with lots of relics from the hard times. The mine was serviced by the steam train from Zeehan via a 64 meter long tunnel, hand dug straight through a hill. The access road was via 1.6 km of dirt. After the yesterday’s 38 km of dirt road, riders were very cautious of my dirt road claims, particularly as the bikes were covered from head to foot in white baked-on mud. The return 2.4 km trip was up and over the hill, completing the loop back to the golf course and main road. There were quite a few pot holes full of yellow clay coloured water to negotiate.

Zeehan bakery for morning tea which became early lunch around 11.30am  to 12.30pm. The salad rolls – huge with asparagus, pineapple, ham, lettuce, beetroot, cucumber, and  butter! Morning tea rolled over into lunch – people just kept eating!

Back to Tullah after riding towards Queenstown and picking up the Plimsol Road again (racing now, sighting and warm up laps completed). The local Tullah service station was well supported by us as this was my fourth fill in 3 days. Bron rode the ZX10 from Zeehan, Dave on the GSXR600.

 

Wednesday 7th  Tullah to Maydena Giant’s Table

As per usual, breakfast in the open communal dining area with magnificent views across the lake. No steam rising off the water or canoes and kayaks paddling on the mirror surface this morning.  Cereal all round followed by toast for the rest of the team while Julie and I had muesli and a banana each

Pack up and on the road after refuelling for those that didn’t refuel the night before – Ian, Paul, Dave, Rob. Dave’s bike wouldn’t start though it seemed to pass all the initial self tests. Eventually fired when Paul hit the starter button and wasn’t a problem thereafter.

It was generally agreed “Where else can you sit on absurdly high speeds for long periods other than in Tasmania. Everywhere else we would be in jail.

We didn’t get far up the Plimsol Road (second race!) – a few hundred meters before we were stopped by a 4WD Hydro vehicle explaining that an excavator was coming through and we would have to wait until it passed. “Be about 5 minutes” - Tasmanian time – which equates to about 25 minutes by the clock. It was just as well we waited as the excavator was 100 tonnes, took up a lane and a half, was hauled by two 600 horse power prime movers with large concrete blocks over the back wheels for traction. They were arranged in a push-me, pull-me set up and were averaging 15 km per hour. Why this route? Because the direct route from Zeehan via Roseberry was too tight!  The combined length and width could not get around the corners.

So, for the seventh and final time I set off down the Plimsol Road. It didn’t feel as good as yesterday afternoon and I worked out why: - the bike was now fully laden with fuel and the tyres were cold and the road appeared to have damp patches. I slotted in behind Paul who always goes hard early but fades as they day goes on and he gets tired.

We all passed Bronwyn driving the orange ute on the Plimsol Road but not Julie who had got through before the road was blocked. At the end we turned left and headed for Queenstown. Another brilliant road with white lines at the edge, super smooth bitumen, heaps of Armco including one corner where you are cranked over so much that the rise of the road means the only thing you can see when looking ahead is Armco, Arrmco, Armco. I’ve never met such a corner. Dave brought it up later as most unusual.

Down steeply into Queenstown and then up to the first lookout where we regrouped. Pete decided, after seeking a third confirming opinion,  to go back and get money out of the ATM at Queenstown. Julie went past – having stopped for a coffee and money at Queenstown. Later she noted later she was only held up for a few minutes by the Excavator Show.

The night before Ian was  talking to a local geologist trained as an explosives expert, now working for the Tasmanian Hydro-Electricity Commission (locally referred to as “The Hydro”) and called me over. We were given details of where to get a good view of an abandoned open cut mine – the original Lyell mine – which is now all underground.  About 1 km past the lookout right at the top of the mountain there is a bitumen road off to the left for 500 meters with a car park and magnificent views down the valley towards Hobart. Clambering through the barb wire fence we blundered around until we first found the “sink” hole where the ground was literally sinking as the old mines collapsed, and secondly this magnificent, enormous open cut mine, unfenced of course. Red cliffs of rusty iron ore and the remnants of a disused mining plant. Lots of concrete slabs with “1” bolts protruding through –as if they had unbolted boilers and winches and relocated them. There was lots of subsidence with the old road disappearing over the cliff, railway sleepers disappearing into the mountain and reappearing further on.

After taking lots of photos - see front cover of this month’s magazine. Pete pretended that we had to rescue him from falling over the cliff. Bronwyn caught up with us before we headed off on the remaining 80 km to Derwent Bridge. This is another fantastic road with relentless corners. I was way out in front as the guys started playing musical bikes, unbeknownst to me.

All of a sudden the number of cars (mainly Hyundai Getz rental vehicles, caravans – three in a row, logging trucks, the usual numerous Hydro vehicles) had increased exponentially. We were now on the main and only highway linking east and west Tassy.  This just made for lots of passing manoeuvres as our average speed was much much higher than everyone elses.  My arms were starting to feel the strain of hundreds, if not thousands of direction changes (say 20 corners per km, 80 km, 1600 corners!)  Apparently the others were also feeling tired but that other contributing factors may have been having to drink all the remaining beer because they couldn’t take it with them, talking till way past midnight, or having ridden 525 hard km the day before. The idea of a regular afternoon kip has a lot of credence with these guys.

Just before Derwent Bridge the others finally caught up, Dave behind me, when we met an oncoming group of cyclists with a couple out in front of the main peloton, which was holding up a bus!  Trouble was brewing and we passed very gingerly. Just as well because rounding a fast sweeping right hander a Hydro 4WD driven by an elderly gentleman looked right through me and then proceeded to pull out in front of me. Thank God for modern brakes and light bikes. Dave saw it all and had nasty flash back to the three bike pile up he witnessed on the Great Ocean Road ride (we think around 1994). I was involved in that one too.

Derwent Bridge saw Julie already enjoying a pie. We all topped up after the 150 km from Tullah and would now have enough to reach Maydena.  Lunch was declared at 12 noon and we sat down to a range of food varying from skewered steak hamburgers to wedges and pies. The shop ladies were flat out collecting petrol money and dealing with the food orders. Consequently, it all took a long time. Not wanting to waste too much time I figured we could get a head start on the The Wall, a wood carving gallery by Greg Duncan who has a commission from the state government to carve the history of Tasmania on 4 meter high wall by about 25 meters long, both sides. This is a five year project and he looks to be about 70% complete. To survive he makes sculptures out of Huon pine – perfectly formed gloves, hanging coats, wombats, human skull, Thylacine foetus (copied from one preserved in a bottle).  It is a fantastic wooded structure which houses the whole complex including a magnificent wooden fireplace. Entry fee of $7.50 and is his only form of regular income.  There is nothing like this anywhere else in Australia, or possibly the world.  Julie, Pete and Ben absorbed the sights and then relaxed in the leather chairs.  Renzo took a brief look and then convinced the others it was a waste of money. 

On to Ouse, Westerway and Maydenna, stopping for a visor clean about 30 km short.  On arrival, our host Ann gave me a guided tour of the luxurious accommodation and then later a tour of the newly formed lakes. They are suffering from the drought as their spring has dried up as a result of no snow the previous summer. They are now on town water which has to be boiled as it comes out of the river.

The boys were dearly in need of a sleep and declined the offer of a quick blast out to Lake Peddar, some 85 km down the Strath Gordon Road. Bron was keen to take out her frustrating car drive by jumping on the Suzuki.  So the two of us set off into the cool and overcast skies which eventually produced light rain in short bursts.  The road surface became quite slippery – particularly under the rain forest overhang which rarely sees full sun.  I skooted the last 12 km down to Lake Peddar then back to Strath Gordon as earlier agreed. Ann had noted that they now sell fuel – unleaded only. It was cheaper than Derwent Bridge (131.8 c/l) at $1.30, a pleasant surprise.

Back to camp with Ben now leading Bron, making the return trip a bit easier for her.

Tea at the onsite Giant’s Table restaurant. All home-made food with 2 courses for $30 or three for $35.  Various options were taken up. Magnificent meal. All over by about 10 pm and back to our rooms.

We all ended up in Ian’s house. (Three houses, Renzo and Rob, Dave and Bron in one, Ben and Julie in another, the fab three (Peter, Paul and …Ian) in the other. Serious (alcohol fuelled) consideration was given to the future direction of the Club, partly driven by the fact that we have only recruited two new members so far this year, and secondly, the average age as noted in one of the articles was 44.5 years old, and rising. Issues considered include a name change, new members, number of members, future of club, format of committee.

  • What is the risk of not attracting new members? Ultimately club dissolves. Do we need more younger members? Or do we target the mid-life crisis blokes returning to riding after marriage, kids and divorce, cashed up and looking to get back into bikes? Or both. Should we make a personal approach to each of the members to encourage them to come out riding. Would they anyway?
  • Do we really need more members?  Yes. To solve the ever increasing age difference.  How many? Paul estimates a 15% increase would be sufficient.
  • Not enough members riding? How do we attract them back to riding? There is a small core group – who have a lot of fun, but very few up and coming members.  Excellent new member Cameron Stevens – articles, rides, leading, but what happens if he crashes or has family commitments?
  • Renzo suggested a meeting point on a Saturday afternoon or morning for a coffee somewhere every second week – similar to Ulysses.  Threshermans Bakery in Faraday St Carlton suggested as central, cheap food, good parking, informal get together point. We went there after the MCG photo shoot. 
  • Dave Ward noted that the Hangmore Club went on huge membership drive  and now as many as 80 riders turn up on rides. But are they all financial members?  Why can’t we attract these guys?  Hangmore seems to be doing all the things we do – fast rides, track days, trips to the Snowies and Tassy. They ride similar bikes to ourselves. They seem to have captured the younger generation who use the web chat sites and SMS to organise rides amongst themselves. Dave and Paul will go for a ride with them and see how they operate. Ben check out Hangmore web site.
  • In a similar vein, Renzo suggested we see what other clubs are doing eg Southbank Friday night. Get old members to come on a ride by encouragement through the Club magazine and web site.  It is harder to sign up a new member than preserve an old member.  We would like to see older members more often. Possibly advertise the finish point so members can meet.
  • Other successful clubs: HOG group at Peter Stevens Ringwood – large numbers.  BMW rides.
  • Do we ride too fast? Are we too old? Are younger riders are put off by our grey hair?
  • What is going to happen in the future when Ben and Ian etc no longer ride?
  • Dave is available for a Committee position this year as he is working regular hours.
  • Pete: Ulysses Club ride at the speed limit and no more. At the end of the ride there is the option to hoon. For instance, 25 starters, 17 go home, 8 go for fast ride. Should target that group!
  • What do people want or get out of the Club? Improvement of riding skill and increased experience through practise. We offer the opportunity to get lots of practise with good riders.  
  • Name change possibilities – to better reflect who we are and what we do. Currently we are called the Motorcycle Sports Touring Club of Victoria. Suggested options: “Motorcycle Sport Club of Victoria”, “Melbourne Sports Bike Club”, Melbourne Sports Bike Riders”. Rob felt strongly that we were more Melbourne than Victorian based and the name should reflect that. Last name change 2000? 
  • Letter from the President canvassing for ideas in magazine.

 

Thursday 8th

Ian, Paul and Pete did a 250 km ride heading north to Bothwell, Westerway, Hamilton, Melton, Mowbray, Pike Hill, Campania, Brighton, Bridgewater, New Norfolk and Bushy Park. Back 4 pm. Highlight of the ride was the vanilla slice at Bothwell Bakery and the great roads.

Ben and Julie drove to Mt Field National Park and after 16 km of dirt road started a 5 hour walk up Mt Field West, taking 4 hours and 50 minutes. As they arrived back at The Giant’s Table accommodation they latched on to Peter, Paul and Ian following them along the 4 km of dirt, starting at bottom of the street, to Junee Cave, one of a series of 195 caves carved by the river system through the mountains. It is possible to walk/swim/dive up stream – if you are game. 

The boys stopped after 3.85 km, thinking it was all too hard, completely oblivious to Julie and Ben following closely behind in the car.  We loaded everyone in the car for the last 150 metres (!), the walk entrance just around the next corner. The riders were only managing 25 km/h.  It was a ten minute walk to the cave entrance where the river poured out of the mountain. Plenty of fish in the crystal clear water, and pademelons going about their business which seems to consist of eating, eating and eating, much like ourselves.

Then back to camp where I swapped my full camera memory card of photos for Julie’s memory card which then claimed to be locked and effectively unusable.  Back into the car with Peter, Julie and Ian for a drive out to the Styx Giant Trees, preceded by 15 km of logging truck dirt  road with serious potholes at the far end.  There was a 10 minute board walk to the Big Tree followed by the Bigger Tree!  The Greenies had vandalised most of the signage with their comments or removed the signs altogether.

Rob and Renzo day’s activities included riding to Hobart. They did a $20 bus tour of the Hobart sights including Sandy Bay, Wrest Point Casino, Old Semaphore Signal Base, Battery Point, Cascade Brewery, Botanical Gardens, and Government House. The tour took a full hour and was full of American tourists. It was possible to get on and off the bus as it went around in a continuous loop. Rob and Renzo particularly noticed the land values, the driver providing a continuous commentary. In Hobart, $1M bought you a “semi-decent shack”. In South Hobart, $400K was the price of a typical house – comparably to Melbourne prices.

Dave and Bron went to Hobart in the ute reaching Salamanca Place by 11am for coffee. They checked out the Horizon bike shop selling Honda, Yamaha and MV Augusta with a view to trading the ZX10 on an MV Augusta F41000 S or purchasing one outright.

We all came together for tea at 7 pm at The Giants Table restaurant. Pete missed the girls from the Phoenix Bus who were sleeping in a couple of the other houses, but had taken off to eat elsewhere.  It was a different menu each night and tonight’s menu included pumpkin and ginger soup, warm cajun chicken salad, shrimp cocktail, mushroom and leek pancake (entrees). Mains: lasagne, scotch fillet steak with various sauces, chicken with camembert cheese and raspberry and port sauce, cuscus, venison and wallaby gourmet sausages and a mixed vegetable platter with ratatouille, scalloped potatoes (perfectly executed and very popular with Dave). Desserts: apple and almond pie, chocolate cake, cheesecake with passionfruit, ice cream and cream. The ice cream was served with numerous sauce flavours.

The evening ended with planning for tomorrow’s ride and more discussions about Club directions. 

 

Friday 9th Maydena – Latrobe – 612 km

We were on the road by 9 am with breakfast and packing all done.  Route: Maydena to Bothwell, straight up the middle to Poatina.  On a right turn intersection followed by a fast sweeper I met a log truck way over my side of the road. I moved over even more, and fleetingly considered running into the dirt, adrenalin pumping hard.  Nothing to do but push on.  It was now very cold, but when we dropped down to Poatina, it was quite warm – Melbourne temperature 27 deg. 

Back roads to Campbelltown. My map had no distances and I had estimated 90 km, but in fact only 60 km. This was always going to be a long ride and knocking 30 km off was a bonus. It was still before midday so we pressed on to Bicheno for lunch at the bakery via Leake Road. The boys got so excited that they all went up the coast road ahead of me. The Bakery seemed to be new, well appointed and stocked and now patronised with us pouring in and ordering pies, focaccias, hot cross buns and coffees. A 4WD drive cop parked on other side of road but there were no issues. The only other police we saw all day were 20 minutes up the highway from Bothwell.

My steering head top nut had worked itself loose, and the front end was banging strangely. The nut is made of titanium and is very light – the 929 had a steel one. I have been tempted not to over tighten it for fear of stripping the fine thread. But I know it is stronger than steel so now it is really tight.

Day’s best road: Campbelltown to Coast (Leake Rd) followed by the coastal road to Bicheno, or possibly the first 10 km of Bothwell road, or the sweepers section into Poatina! My front Dunlop 208GP tyre was dripping rubber at end of the Leake Road, high speed sweeper after high speed sweeper. The steep downhill section was awesome! Note: new service station in the middle section of Leake Road.

Heading back to Latrobe via the inland alternative route to Rossarden, a spotted (Bambi) deer ran in front of Ben, leaving a cloud of dust as he took off, scrambling and gaining pace before passing/diving across and missing the front wheel by a whisker, then sliding out of control into the bushes on the other side of the road. Scared the daylights out of Ben who fully expected impact. Both survived unscathed.

A woman came out with her child to see the bikes as we rumbled through. Not much traffic out these ways. Renzo rode Dave’s ZX10 and Dave rode the VFR; later Paul and Dave swapped. Dave is looking to sell the ZX10 and buying either a F41000S or Ducati 1098. Dave’s ZX10 now has a sizeable stone chip on the tank.

We regrouped under the railway bridge at the end of another unadvertised 6 km of dirt. I was down to my last litre of fuel. The bike’s economy tends to suffer as the weather and road conditions improve, I notice.

Bron and Julie drove up the middle to Latrobe via Bothwell, eating scallop pies, and visiting the raspberry farm at Elizabeth Town. At Dave’s suggestion, we also attempted to visit the farm but it closed at 5 pm.

Accommodation – some confusion with the requirement of a trundle bed to make up the right number of beds. Later, as it turned out, there was the correct number of rooms. In the interim, Rob had exchanged his Sunday boat ticket for a sleeping birth that night, in an hour or so! Goodbye Rob.

After walking the length of the main street looking for somewhere different to eat, we settled on the Lucas pub, coincidentally where we were staying for the next two nights. Judging by the amount of clientele and cars parked outside, it was the pick of the two pubs. Everything else was either closed or about to. We all had tea together, pigged out as usual with three courses.

We had met a few cattle grazing on the long paddock ie between the fence and road -  as Tasmania is also suffering badly with the drought, particularly in the north. Everyone was in fine form that evening, stories flying. Dave reckons he yelled at the big tuff looking cattle “Just remember two words …” and the peanut gallery responded with … “Medium Rare!”

I asked Renzo whether he had had a good day. He responded with “Every day is a good day – so long as I don’t crash. Awesome. Beautiful ride. Typical cruising speed. Discovered some beautiful and magnificent roads.”

 

Saturday 9th Latrobe – St Marys – Latrobe – 524 km

Bron rode with us today. We left at 9.15am and rode to Shearwater Suzuki who have the franchise for MV Augusta, Aprilia, Kawasaki, Moto Guzzi, Cagiva and Vespa: 7 franchises! On the shop floor were brand new Kawasaki ZX6s and 1400s. Dave was trying to crunch a deal on an MV Augusta 1000 F4 R – Brembo brakes, light weight wheels, up spec engine internals, engine management system, clutch, suspension, paint job, mufflers. He hoped to unload his 3 week old ZX10 and trade it in.  174 horse power for the MV.  $23K  changeover. We wandered around the shop looking at all the nice toys.

Next stop Launceston Auto Museum – arriving at 11.30am after 105 km.  $10 entry saw much oohing and aahing. Lots of cars including MGB, Corvette Stringray, 1972 4 speed Hemi Charger, Rollers, 1908 Humberette,  GTHO Ford, Sierra Cosworth 306 HP, 1988.  Oldest bike: Levis 1912, 1926 Indians, Ducati 916 Senna 1998.

Dave visited the Ducati shop haggling over price on the new 1098 Ducati – owner will ring back. Dave doesn’t want to take the ZX10 back home on the boat if he can help it.

We left at about 12.50pm and headed the 60 km to Scottsdale for lunch in the main street: pies, sandwiches and coffees.  Pete discovered he was $8,000 down in his bank account which made a good story when he was pulled over by Mr Plod doing 94 in an 80 zone. Timber mill – cop hiding -  and came out in his Nissan Pathfinder. Dave and Bron thought they were gone and when he came up behind them, they pulled over. But he continued on and pulled over Pete who was oblivious.  Pete escaped with a written warning thanks to talking fast and his lucky crushed 20 cent piece  - crushed under the steam train at Queenstown.

101 km of fabulous twisties to Derby and St Helens.  Lots of delays with Pete being pulled over. There was some gravel in the corners. Renzo, riding like a demon (What’s new?) worked out that if he followed in my wheel tracks he had far fewer slides and near misses. With good eyes, I was able to ride around the gravel. Follow me, miss the gravel!

Back in Scottsdale after retracing our steps, a message came through that Ian was trying to call all and sundry. I checked my voice mail to discover that Ian was riding slowly due to a slow leak in his rear tyre. When he reached Scottsdale I plugged his tyre with my last red liquorice strip. The plan was to head due west cross country to Lilydale and avoid Launceston. But with two sign posted routes to Lilydale, Ian managed to take the wrong one and set off in pursuit of the phantom rear rider, Bronwyn. He couldn’t believe how fast she was! By Launceston (!) he figured out he had missed the group.

Meanwhile, we found some more ripper roads. Paul cleaned up a parrot on the Beaconsfield to Frankford road – an absolutely brilliant road. Beaconsfield was the site of the recent mine collapse with the two miners trapped for 10 days, the rescue effort broadcast around the world.

Heading back late in the early evening, sun low, we encountered a giant  sprinkler  irrigating the very, very shiny road, mid sharp right hand corner.  Thankfully, it looked worse than it was.

It was approaching the end of the last day of the whole trip. Renzo’s bike was now suffering from a lack of maintenance, the chain almost dragging along the ground, left indicator not working – despite crashing on the rhs. Apparently a wire has broken. He had a nail in the tyre for the duration of the trip, first observed by Ben on Day 1. The rear wheel nut requires a 50 mm socket to adjust the chain, not readily available. According to Dave, the triple clamps are twisted. And the speedo reads at least 10 percent high due to alternative sprocket gearing.  This affects the odometer which effects apparent fuel consumption. Renzo, forgetting all this, was always arguing the toss on distance covered, distance to the next fuel stop, and average speeds.  Lucky he is turning 60 in 11 days.

Apparently there was a near miss as we rode nose to tail. Renzo missed the car in front turning left and then had to brake hard, scaring Paul with his massive front braking effort, the front wheel chirping, forks banging. Renzo: “It doesn’t matter now if I crash because it is the last day.”

Back at 7.40 pm. No Ian. Then he rolled in a minute latter.  Julie was out watching the platypus in the Latrobe River.

Pete: “Challenge after challenge – fantastic Scottsdale to St Mary’s road.”

Dave: “Looking forward to a freeway after this trip!”

Pete: “We are so crazy, it is beyond comprehension.”

More highlights from Pete:

  • chasing three guys up front – loved being chased or doing the chase!
  • doing 18# – crested hump and front wheel came up, and then slowly came down. 
  • Dave monoing out of corners and then putting it down again for the next corner.
  • Watching Dave cacking himself laughing when Pete, confronted with  the option of veering left or veering right, chose neither, splitting the Y junction and going up the middle into the bushes – on Dave’s bike!
  • kicking back to 1st gear – chasing Paul, then stopping to eat blackberries
  • wheel spin – open the throttle hard – drift – wheel spin. Fantastic.

 

Ian’s bike clocked over 20,000 km. Ben’s 70,000 km.

Julie drove to Point Sorrell, had a look around – a one shop town supported by the booming local caravan park. Then she went to Narawntapu National Park up on the coast opposite Point Sorrell and did a bush walk. The place was jumping!  Potteroos, wallabies, small furry things with tails (pademelons …Ed). There was a bird hide overlooking the swamp lands with views of the swans and kangaroos.  Then she climbed up to Archie’s Knob offering spectacular 360 degree views of the coastline and the swamplands. You could see for miles.  It was here that she caught the first glimpse of the most magnificent beach – likened it to Port Douglas without the penthouses or people. She walked along this 7 km beach for about 5 km.

Julie had been issued with a car park sticker at the entrance ranger station but had somehow missed paying the $20 entry fee after talking so much to the ranger, so went back and paid. She tried to visit some other signposted beaches but the roads were too corrugated and she turned back. Lunch at the Axemans Hall of Fame at Latrobe. The café was set up for a wedding that night.

 

Sunday 11th Latrobe to Melbourne on the Spirit of Tasmania

I drove the Magna down to check what time the service stations opened because with 52 km on reserve I wasn’t going to make the 10 km to Devonport to catch the ferry.  Paul was in a similar situation. Alas, they didn’t open till 8 pm – if they were on time. So I decided to take Pete up on his offer of fuel.  I had the water bottle and Paul had the siphon. I took a litre and Paul 600 ml.  Ian’s tyre had gone completely flat so out with the foot pump. Ian stacked up the bags outside the motel on the street side ready to load into the car. We were all parked out the back in the off-street carpark –out of sight, out of mind.

Dave and Bron had to change rooms after deciding to stay an extra night and catch the ferry a day later. They ended up purchasing the Ducati 1098, leaving the ZX10 as a trade in. The plan had come together.

We picked up the River Road following the Mercy River to Devonport.  The road was so slippery I thought my rear tyre was flat – or the kids had let some air out of tyres.  When I saw the queue of cars for the boat back to the traffic lights I figured I would have enough time to go and get fuel – passing an open service station on the way. The tank took 17.2 litres. Paul followed suit. I also checked the rear tyre pressure and according to the gauge it had 38 psi – fine.  I asked Ian later and he thought the surface also particularly slippery.

8.30 am saw us lined up at the front of the queue, waiting for all the cars to load – after we had filtered our way to the front of the queue. About 10 minutes later we were called on.  Estimated docking time at Melbourne 6.45 pm. 

Found Julie who reported that the car was blowing a bit of smoke, hopefully nothing too serious. Home by 7.15 pm. Can’t wait till next time.

 

Ben Warden